Se ci penso, mi mangio le mani. La fotografia di paesaggio piu' bella di tutto il viaggio in Marocco e' What I did not fire between Skoura Ourzazate and when the road goes parallel to the river Dades and beyond 'the imposing cliffs of rock streaked, warm colors, you can see the blue of the lake to Mansour Al-Dhabi. Ouarzazate looks like a Western city, with wide streets and even clean and tidy.
Even the hotel Les Jardins de Ouarzazate has little to do with the family-run riad and kasbah country hospitality with which we have found 'till now, is, in fact, a modern complex, spread over more 'plans, with swimming pool and uniformed personnel, including if the rich decor and 'objectionable taste and traditions. Upon our arrival, a porter escorted us to the room through a large garden, so we find' that we have placed in front of the pool. The room is comfortable and spacious and the service as a whole, excellent, even considering the fact that the accommodation in this three-star hotel has a very low cost. Portraits luggage, we order the usual tasty omelette berbere (and now 'become a classic of the holiday), then we have lunch outside in the table just outside the room facing the garden. If it were not for the sky and 'cloudy and threatening rain, everything would be perfect.
Verso le quattro, comincia a cadere qualche goccia d’acqua, per cui decidiamo di riposarci un’oretta, prima di pianificare giri turistici o qualsiasi altra cosa. Quando ci destiamo, fuori si sta facendo buio, ma non piove e l’aria è ancora tiepida. Un cameriere (un po' sfacciato) osserva Manu immergersi in piscina, quindi schiocca una risata e le offre un fiore colto dal giardino; a quel punto, m'infilo anch'io il costume e metto la testa fuori dalla stanza; prima di tuffarmi in acqua, scatto qualche fotografia a bordo vasca alla ricerca dell'angolo perfetto e della combinazione di tempi e aperture del diaframma che rendano giustizia alla beautiful light of dusk. How 'natural it is, our evening bath attracts the attention of several guests of the nearby rooms and, in particular, to an American lady, who, with a trivial excuse, attack button. Smile, the middle-aged ', friendly, self-confident, not at all intimidated by the circumstances (I am always in water, a little' cold, waiting for Manu bring me a robe): you can see who wants to chat with someone . We invite you to dine with us. Mrs. Anna (this, name) turns out to be an amiable conversationalist, we spend a very enjoyable evening, talking about travel, politics and America. Oh! By the way, put on your heart in pare perche', secondo Anna, Obama non verra' rieletto: la gente e' molto scontenta per via della crisi economica in cui versa il paese, Obama forse non ne e' il responsabile, ma non sta facendo un gran che per uscirne fuori.
Ouarzazate e la sua provincia sono la patria del cinema marocchino. E' qui che sorgono i gloriosi CLA Studios e Atlas Film Corporation Studios, che sono stati set cinematografici per pellicole del calibro di Lawrence d'Arabia, Thé nel deserto, Le rose del deserto, Gesu' di Nazareth, L'ultima tentazione di Cristo, Black Hawk Down, Kundum, Il Gladiatore, La Mummia, Alexander, Le Crociate, Sahara, Troia, l'Esorcista 2, Hidalgo and Babel. The natural setting and art offered by the rocky desert and the ancient kasbah has, in other words, bewitched directors like David Lean, Mario Monicelli (the great master died suicide in these days), Bernardo Bertolucci, Martin Scorsese , Ridley Scott, Oliver Stone, Stephen Sommers, Breck Eisner, John Boorman, Joe Johnston and Alejandro González Iñárritu. More 'recently, at least according to what he says in the Lonely, Morocco has entered into close relations with the Bollywood film industry, but I do not I can certainly confirm. E 'possible to visit both studios, but we are limited only to take some souvenirs to photo-portal esterno (kitch) degli Atlas.
Il vero obiettivo della nostra tappa a Ouarzazate erano in realta' la Kasbah Ait Ben-Haddou (patrimonio dell'Unesco) e la piu' piccola e modesta - si fa per dire - Kasbah Taourirt, che piu' che un palazzo assomiglia ad un intricato labirinto di scale, corridoi e piccole porte: quando le stanze sono un di piu'. Quanto ad Ait Ben-Haddou, bisogna aprire un capitolo a parte.
Per arrivarci, percorriamo una strada dissestata in mezzo al solito niente; incrociamo solo qualche raro veicolo, cercando di evitare Once each of the holes so huge you can easily swallow the entire machine. The parking lot, we find the usual abuse, but it seems to sit on her; around, there is no shadow of impromptu tour guides, which smells strange. We mixed in the middle of a large group of tourists just landed a mega-bus, hoping to avoid as much 'as possible the attention of vendors lined up on either side of the road that leads to the kasbah. However, I am approached by a "student," which would wipe both his Italian and for the translation of some phrases of interest, in front of him a trinket shop. Incredible! It seems he went out in the section faux guides "on page 531 of the Lonely Planet.
overcome the first hurdle, but now he has another, far more 'consistent: everything I expected, except to get to the kasbah in need ford a river and too murky mire of lousy. Be ', if one does not want to defile their feet and clothes, can' always ask for a lift to the taxi-mule, which obviously implies a whole bargaining that we have no desire to do. We pull up his pants and we venture into the mud, following the example of other tourists.
This would also bearable. What he did enrage and Manu 'was the fact that across the river to find a group of individuals who, as pirahna hungry, waiting for us to sell package tours that include a tour of the kasbah and the inevitable visit to the local cooperative carpets and yarns. We were still with feet wet when one of these characters has appiccicosissimi targeted, insistently offering his services to "only" 50 dirhams. It 's not been easy to convince him to let go, there' took a lot of patience and stored dry. Manu will not tell you, at which point his mood was rather black and unfortunately he has not 'enjoyed very much visiting the Kasbah, which for another and' a unique treasure.
Per quelli che a questo punto non si sentono troppo convinti, una piccola nota di incoraggiamento: abbiamo visto con i nostri occhi che poco piu' in la' dal punto in cui abbiamo guadato il fiume c'e' un cantiere all'opera che sta realizzando un ponte. Guide locali e turisti, per lo meno, si incontreranno all'asciutto e le relazioni tra i due mondi non potranno che trarne reciproco beneficio.
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