Marrakesh, thousands of colors. In addition to close a circle that goes from cultural tourism Gersualemme , Istanbul and Seville - and I would like to further enrich the future with the ride Sicily - for me it 'was like a touch of the great myths of my childhood, as recognized by those Salvatores' films devoted to the themes of escape, the friendship and the pain of love.
Marrakech Riad Zara equal first place. I dedicate my first thought at the best bed & breakfast of our trip and his wonderful owner Monique. Take note, go, stay and come back when you remember to leave the blog thanks for this valuable report. We were literally spoiled by this charming French lady, so kind, helpful, generous with good advice and Always attentive to the needs' of the guests. Monique is not 'just a perfect and refined lady of the house, but' above all, a woman in the leg. Open such a structure alone in the medina of Marrakech must have been difficult undertaking, not for everyone.
include a mint tea and the other, he told us all the work that still today is to carry out the task in a country so different in outlook and status of women by that it comes from: "Sometimes, Riad seems to me like a prison, are hostage to the oasis of peace and prosperity I built in the midst of backwardness. " In fact, outside of that door there is a whole other world, the alley is narrow and dusty and full of children who follow us begging for a coin, we have a thousand eyes looking at us like we were on Mars, even if we regularly mistaken for English and then - in geographical terms - for the neighbors. Contrast and 'so strong and the stories of so Monique' troubled and that 'impossible to think of Riyadh as a simple hostel for tourists.
If sifting through the comments that people leave on the Internet will find that Monique e' anche un'ottima cuoca e noi lo possiamo senz'altro confermare. Cominciamo col dire che la sera in cui ci siamo fermati a cena il Riad era illuminato dalla calda e soffusa luce di mille candele (sistemate persino sui gradini delle scale che portano al piano terrazzato), la piscinetta era cosparsa di petali di rosa e nell'aria risuonavano pezzi di musica popolare francese. In questa piacevolissima cornice, abbiamo gustato forse la migliore cucina marocchina di tutto il viaggio, con piatti saporiti, preparati nel pomeriggio con l'aiuto della fac-totum Fatima e innaffiati da ottimo vino d'oltralpe. La serata e' stata particolarmente gaia per via della buona compagnia: oltre a noi e Monique, infatti, era presente anche una coppia di suoi amici, Nicholas and Stephanie, newly arrived from Lyon.
Riad Zara, to be honest, and 'was also a good choice in terms of "encounters". We spent the first night in Marrakech to explore the large and always varies Djema El-Fna, in the company of a couple of young doctors in Parma, Simon and Deborah, known to our arrival in Riyadh. A couple of nights later, however, have made friends with another couple of boys, Marco and Laura, from Senigallia. Marrakech and 'full of tourists all year round, the Italians in the crowd especially in August, but we have also encountered a number at the end of September. At the Palais de Bahia abbiamo conosciuto per caso due simpaticissime fiorentine, Letizia ed Elisabetta (detta anche "bonne journée"), con cui abbiamo poi trascorso il resto del pomeriggio e la serata. A loro rimane indelebilmente associato il ricordo del baracchino denso di fumo del Grande Arrostitore di piazza Hassan.
Marrakech e' la sintesi perfetta del Marocco che abbiamo avuto modo di visitare: la citta' nuova, con palazzi e viali in stile occidentale, e' eredita' del periodo coloniale francese (certamente degni di nota, i giardini Majorelle e la bella facciata della stazione ferroviaria), la medina, al contrario, e' il volto piu' autentico e tradizionale del Marocco, with the pearls of Islamic art (such as the magnificent Medersa Ben Youssef), historical monuments and imperial palaces, the great maze and Suq, small shops and craft shops on the street and finally, an element unique and unparalleled, the characteristic liveliness' from "Square of Miracles" by Djema El-Fna (heritage of humanity 'UNESCO).
not stay 'to bore you with the detailed account of our eplorazioni, suffice it to say that Djema El-Fna is, by itself, as they say, the ticket. There are no words or pictures that make the idea and 'a huge square, the natural outlet of the lanes covered north of the Suq and, more' generally, magnetic center of the entire medina, which attracts every day a large amount 'of acrobats, street artists and, of course, ordinary people and foreigners from everywhere. Always moving, always changing itself, mesmerizing: we spent hours on the terrace of the Cafe 'Glacier to watch snake charmers, musicians, singers and storytellers, acrobats and jugglers, fortune tellers, tattoo artists, peddlers of junk (as well as' goods licit and illicit), male beggars, giostrai improvised, etc ... In the evening, at the center of the square materializes an expanse of outdoor seating and street stalls numbered (see the already 'said Hassan), where people consume mainly meat-based meals spices and other delicacies, spending represents very modest. Monique recommends shack number one, because it 's the one run by a woman (a big woman, really!). If you pass them, 'give it a try: it seems to see a captain to the bridge of a ship, which gives orders to a disciplined and affaccendatissima crew of cooks and dishwashers.
I can not leave the subject without having to Marrakech also said something about the Suq. First, there thinking impression: I found more 'at home here among the narrow alleys and irregular (once you get lost, but it' s so it should be), that between the pompous times of the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul , maybe done on purpose to inspire a certain awe in the visitor. And then in Marrakech discuss with traders often very young, if not teenagers, who occasionally - including a shop and the other - are even smiling. Take the case of the three lamps can and goat skin, taken away at a price five times less than that applied at the beginning of negotiations, I sat beside the young shopkeeper and we exchanged informal chat like two old friends.
Tips for purchases. First, treated, handled, treated and if the price still does not convince you go away, the more 'chase of the time you accept your conditions. Second, never do a price even very low, if you are not interested in buying, or the seller believes that negotiation is open and will not let you 'go away empty-handed so easily. Third, bring an empty suitcase, 'cause you'll want to take home several local Moroccan handicrafts, not to mention shopping in the Suq - you'll see it - and' a very enjoyable pastime!
Finally, I close my throwing again on gastronomy. Our last day of vacation was spent on the Atlantic coast to Essaouira (the medina and 'indicated by the UNESCO as world heritage') has always been an important center of commerce and luogo di incontro tra europei - portoghesi prima e francesi poi - ebrei e berberi. Per certi versi mi ha ricordato San Giovanni d'Acri (Akko) , per quella sua aria di porto senza tempo, ma il piatto forte - e' proprio il caso di dirlo! - e' senz'altro la grigliata di pesce appena pescato, che viene preparata e servita dai ristoratori ambulanti sul porto. Ragazzi, che magnata!!! Ci siamo fatti un chilo di branzino in due (sul prezzo, ovviamente, c'e' da contrattare, ma oramai che ve lo dico a fare?), con foto ricordo al banco delle aragoste. A ne pas manquer! :-)
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